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Ale to the chief as Lees takes on the USA

20/ 2/2002

A CENTURY-OLD Middleton beer recipe is being resurrected in the United States, while Middleton ale lovers will be tasting a beer from Brooklyn in their local pubs.

In a unique exchange arrangement, Garrett Oliver of the Brooklyn Brewery, New York, is guest brewer at the J W Lees brewery in Middleton Junction, while Lees' head brewer Giles Dennis is preparing to fly to America to produce a typically British brew.

At a welcoming party at the Greengate Brewery on Monday, Garrett spoke of the resurgence of interest in real "flavoursome" ales in the United States.

"For a long time American brewers have had a tradition of stripping as much flavour as possible to make a mass product, like sliced white bread it is reduced to the lowest common denominator," he said.

"But things are changing, proper beer is coming back and is getting more flavour. 20 years ago there were just 40 brewers in the whole of the United States, today there are over 2,000, once again trying to produce interesting and flavourful beers."

Mr Oliver said he had developed an interest in British ales through homebrewing and working for a short time in a British microbrewery.

He said the ale he is currently working on - it will be sold in Middleton pubs as 'Brooklyn Bitter' will have a characteristic American taste, well hopped with a flavour of "citrus and pine needles".

In return, when Giles Dennis flies to America to produce a guest British Ale, he will be taking with him a recipe found in an old brewery recipe book. It was a strongish Christmas Ale, only brewed once in November 1894 and sold as 'Star Ale'. The idea is to reproduce it and sell it under the 'Star' label.