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The Dinner Detective: Cocoa Rooms
Dinner Detective7/ 4/2006
Unlike food reviewers on some newspapers, the Dinner Detective pays for the meal and eats out incognito, ensuring the same treatment as the readers.
THE Cocoa Rooms is one of Manchester's newest restaurants and
has claimed a fantastic location on the banks of the River Irk
opposite the cathedral.
The six old brick arches have been completely renovated to create a
swish restaurant and bar with graceful high ceilings and a generous
amount of outside space, perfect for whiling away summer afternoons
with a beer.
It's 7pm on a reasonably chilly Friday evening when we arrive and
we're shown to an empty bar and order drinks while we wait to be
seated.
The décor is all warm coppers, solid wood and leather, a bit like a
Habitat catalogue. It's tastefully done, modern, but not too
posh.
We order a pint of Guinness (£3) and a glass of red wine (£5)
before being shown to our seats in the restaurant section. There's
an open kitchen, which I always like, and an extensive menu.
For starters I choose the petit mixed grill with bubble and squeak
(£6.95), while my dining partner opts for the toasted goats cheese
crumpet with spiced pear salad (£5.50). The petit mixed grill is
full of flavour but it feels a bit odd eating what is basically a
small English breakfast in the evening. At least it's something
different to the usual moules marinere. There's not a murmur from
the other side of the table as the crumpets are devoured, which I
take as a good sign.
For the main course I choose the cracked pepper T-bone with
traditional garnish (£23.50), while my partner feasts on the herb
roasted barrel fillet with four cheese dauphinoise, shallot and
pancetta jus (£19.25).
In the past we've had our fingers burnt at restaurants where we've
ordered the main course only to be served with just the meat and no
veg or chips, so we guard against this by ordering some sides, fat
chips (£2.50) and chestnut mushrooms with rocket and garlic
(£2.95). The meals come, complete with chips, but we eat the side
orders anyway. We're greedy, but we don't get out much.
The meal is washed down with a bottle of still water (£3.50) and a
bottle of the house red (£21). On the whole, both mains are
excellent and I can't fault the service, presentation or
taste.
By the desserts we're stuffed, but we press on anyway as it would
be rude not to. There's a brief argument over who will order the
kahlua and coffee brownie with clotted cream (£5.95), which I lose
and so choose the marinated cherry and frangipan tart with port ice
cream (£5.95).
Now I don't say this lightly but the tart is probably the nicest
thing I've tasted in several years. The combination of texture and
cherry is almost addictive next time I might just order one for
starter, two for the mains and another for dessert. Ignore
everything else, go just for this.
With tip the total bill comes to £115.05, reasonably expensive but
generally value for money.
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