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The Dinner Detective Dines at: Olive Press, Manchester city centre
The Dinner Detective6/10/2005
UNLIKE restaurant reviewers on some newspapers, the Dinner Detective eats out incognito and always pays for the meal. That way, the Dinner Detective gets the same treatment as the readers, giving an honest review of the service you might receive.
THE Olive Press chain takes great pride in an accolade given to
its city centre restaurant.
The company, which has other outlets in Preston, Liverpool and
Warrington - and another opening soon in Bolton - is quick to point
out that their Lloyd Street branch was recently recognised as the
best working lunch venue of the year.
While I would not find that hard to believe, my visit there
suggested it would be a better place for a quick lunchtime bite,
rather than a longer evening meal.
Although the décor was pleasant enough, and the staff were
friendly, there was something about the place - which describes
itself as a bar and grill rather than a restaurant - which I didn't
feel invited me to linger.
I went for the bruschetta of garlic mushrooms, with goat's cheese
and basil pesto (£5) something which seemed like an unusual
variation on a classic dish, and did not disappoint.
Meanwhile, my dining companion chose to start with a mixed
crostini, containing sun-dried tomatoes, baby artichokes,
mozzarella and tapenade (£4.75).
Like most Italian restaurants, the choice for vegetarians wasn't
great. I eventually went for the fresh herb risotto, with
chargrilled baby artichokes and virgin olive oil (£7.95) but begun
to wish I'd made another choice.
At first, the subtle flavours seemed refreshing, but after a while
there just wasn't enough to keep my taste buds interested, and I
started wondering why I didn't follow my dining counterpart and
make the more obvious choice of pizza.
She had gone for the chargrilled chicken variety, with sweet corn,
mushrooms, mozzarella and garlic butter (£7.95).
This hit the mark, but pizza is something you have to work at
fairly hard to get wrong, and a purist might argue against the
presence of sweet corn.
I would definitely return to the Olive Press - but would probably
choose to do so for a lunch, rather than during the evening.
Menu
Mains: Most expensive - roast porchetta Italian
suckling pig with spaghetti, garlic crumbs and cabbage (£15);
cheapest - smoked salmon, avocado and red onion on faccacia
(£6.95).
Starters: Most expensive - antipasto di pesce
poached and smoked salmon (£6.95); cheapest - cream of potato and
rosemary soup (£3.75)
Desserts: Ranging from £3.95 to £4.95
Wines: Ranging from £12.95 bottles to £40 Italian
Amarone.
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