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The Dinner Detective dines at: The Rampant Lion, Anson Road, Victoria Park
The Dinner Detective4/ 8/2005
UNLIKE reviewers on some newspapers, the Dinner Detective eats out incognito and always pays for the meal. That way thew Diner Detective gets the same treatment as the readers, giving you an honest review of the service you might receive.
DINING in a posh restaurant I sometimes makes me feel like my
mum's watching me to make sure I behave myself. It makes it
difficult to relax and enjoy the meal, so it's good to find
somewhere that offers restaurant-quality food in pub setting.
The Rampant Lion changed hands earlier this year and a new chef
started in June, so this a perfect opportunity to see what it's got
to offer. And at about 8.30pm on a Monday evening, when my partner
and I arrived as the kitchens closed at 9pm, the staff didn't make
us feel rushed.
We choose a table in the spacious conservatory, next to the large
beer garden and, after we choose from a menu no longer available,
the waitress comes over to apologise and provide the up-to-date
version.
I start with the baby black ribs (£3.95) with smoky barbecue sauce
and my partner orders the paprika and red pepper risotto with
char-grilled courgettes and herb dressing. They come within a few
minutes and I can tell straight away that I'm going to lose some of
my ribs. After a few suggestive glances at my plate my five ribs
become three and I accept half a plate full of unwanted risotto
with a forced smile. I sometimes find that ribs in barbecue sauce
can be a bit fatty and be all sweet heavy flavours, but in this
case they're delicious.
The mains follow hot on the heels of the starters. My dining partner has opted for a homemade steak and ale pie with mashed potato and marrow fat peas (mushy to you and me), while I choose the char-grilled rib-eye steak with slow roasted tomatoes, flat mushrooms and fat chips. I'm delighted with my meal when it arrives. The steak looks a little bit flat but the chips are massive fat things, arranged in a Jenga-style tower. They are proper English chips and the steak tastes much better than it looks. It's not the best I've ever had, but for £8.95 it's very succulent and enjoyable. The chips and mushrooms are gorgeous. My dining partner raves about the steak and ale pie and the mash that accompanies it.
For dessert I choose chilled bread and butter pudding with cream
anglaise (£3.50), my dinining partner chooses the chocolate
cheesecake (£3.50). It's tasty as well but I'm a little full by
this point and don't think I could have managed the heavy chocolate
cheesecake, unlike my dining partner who demolishes it with
ease.
The service is great, although we are the only diners, and the food
is all very tasty.
The whole three-course meal for two with a pint of bitter and a
large glass of red wine (£3) comes in at just under £40, which is
very reasonable, and we both think the Rampant Lion is a roaring
(sorry) success.
What's on the menu?
STARTERS: Most expensive - Baby black ribs with
smoky barbecue sauce (£3.75). Cheapest -
Soup of the day (£2.75)
MAINS: Most expensive - Char-grilled rib-eye steak
with slow roasted tomatoes, flat mushrooms and fat chips (£8.95).
Cheapest - Fresh hake fillet in beer batter with hand-cut chips
and caper berry jam (£6.50)
WINES: Range from £6 to £10.
PARKING: Large car park
Children's portions are available on request
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